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登山攀岩为什么要戴登山专用的头盔?

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胡大就是我 发表于 2015-7-3 16:41:34 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
 登山攀 岩为什么要戴登山专用的头盔?在欧美出产的登山专用的头盔都必须通过欧洲联盟(CE)或/和UIAA的标准。在欧洲,欧洲联盟要求所有在市场上销售的头盔 通过CE的标准测试。在美国,政府虽然没有相应的强制性规定,但由于市场的竞争和从法律上的考虑,以至事实上所有在美国销售的登山头盔都通过了CE或/和 UIAA标准检验。UIAA指的是国际登山的权威机构,Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme。EN12492是欧洲联盟(CE)关于登山头盔的的标准,UIAA的相应标准(UIAA Standard 106),是在参照CE标准的基础上制定的,但比CE的标准更为严格一些。
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  CE和UIAA的标准有四项,现一一简要介绍如下:

  1. 正冲击试验:5公斤钝头重物(钝头半径5厘米)从2米高自由落体,砸到头盔顶部,假人(木头制)颈部承受的冲击力必须小于8千牛顿(UIAA的标准);必 须小于10千牛顿(CE的标准)。一千牛顿约等于100公斤力(9.8 Newton = 1 kgf)。换言之,假人颈部承受的冲击力必须小于800公斤力(UIAA的标准),必须小于1000公斤力(CE的标准)。
  2. 侧冲击试验:与正方向(头顶)呈60度夹角,分别从前方,两个侧方和后方测试,钝头重物从50厘米高处自由落体,假人颈部承受的冲击力必须小于8千牛顿(UIAA的标准);必须小于10千牛顿(CE的标准)。
  3. 锐物穿透试验:一个3公斤重的锥状体(0.5毫米的尖头)从2米高度自由落体,头盔必须承受至少一次这样的冲击。头盔允许被破坏,但不许锐物直接触及头皮。
  4. 稳定性试验(也叫前后移位测试):10公斤的重物从前方和后方分别砸在头盔上,头盔必须仍然好好地戴在假人头上(测试时记录下被砸后头盔移动的角度)。
  请注意测试标准第1和2条,这里传感器测的是颈部承受的冲力。说明了不仅要求头盔防冲击,而且还要有吸收动能,减缓冲击的能力,就象动力绳那样。头盔减震的功能旨在尽量减少佩戴者的颈椎和脊椎所受到的冲击。
  其次,请注意测试标准第3条,虽说这是一个“通过/失败”一次性的试验,然而一个好的登山头盔(如HB的Dyneema)可以胜任10次这样的冲击。耐用性在历时较长的高山登顶活动或大岩壁作业中就特别可贵了。不象一般的攀岩,头盔被砸坏了晚上可以回城里再买个新的。
  本人除了登山攀岩外,也骑公路和山地车,轮滑(roller blading),越野滑雪。本人反对登山时凑和使用其它运动项目的头盔。虚假的安全性可能会招致意想不到的后果。自行车和轮滑的头盔至少是通不过登山头 盔标准的第3条的。建筑工地上用的安全帽肯定是过不了第四关的。
  目前市场上的头盔主要有三种,硬壳,泡沫塑料,混合式。硬壳的是用高强工程塑料或纤维增强高聚物制成,这种头盔好处在于结实耐用,禁得起摔打(装包时 不用太担心),缺点是重一些。泡沫塑料并不“软”,这种头盔好处在于轻巧,但不及前者结实。混合式采用一层薄的硬壳内衬是泡沫塑料,其设计原理和使用感觉 还是和泡沫塑料头盔比较接近。
  为了各位的安全,请使用通过欧洲联盟或/和UIAA的标准检验的,登山专用的头盔。
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刘赵庆 发表于 2017-10-26 10:38:18 | 显示全部楼层

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王芳 发表于 2017-10-20 15:34:41 | 显示全部楼层

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